A Visit to Athens

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Obviously, the first four things to visit in Athens are the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum, the Agora, and the National Archaeological Museum, but I’m pretty sure most readers of this blog would already be heading for those as soon as the plane touched down. So, assuming you’ve already been in Athens a couple of days and have seen all of those, here are my top suggestions of what to do next:

The Benaki Museum

Just a few blocks from Syntagma Square, this museum has collections ranging from the Neolithic to the 20th century and everything in between. Highlights of the ground floor include the display of Bronze Age jewellery, two Fayum mummy portraits, and some Byzantine illuminated manuscripts; upstairs is a fantastic sequence of displays of dummies wearing traditio

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Museum of Cycladic Art

As you might expect, this museum has a pretty impressive collection of Cycladic figurines. Before visiting, I didn’t even know there were 1.5m tall ones like this. A perfect opportunity for attempts at arty ghostly-reflection photography.


Climb every mountain…

…or hill, at any rate. Lykavittos Hill gives an unbeatable view of sunset over the Acropolis: climb up by the (steep!) path beginning at the top of Odos Loukianou in Kolonaki, or take the funicular from the top of Odos Ploutarhou. Filopappou Hill gives a great view of the Acropolis from the other direction (see the photo at the top of this post). On the way up from near the Acropolis, stop to see the ‘Prison of Socrates’ (actually the remains of ancient rooms carved into the cliff; artefacts from museums were stored here during WW2). After admiring the view from the top near the Monument of Filopappos, walk along beside the remains of the ancient fortification walls down to the Pnyx, where you can practise your Demosthenic oratory or just admire the view of the Propylaia.

Byzantine churches

It’s hard to walk around the older parts of central Athens for more than a few minutes without coming across one of these. Some of the most photogenic (and easy to find) are the ‘Little Metropolis’ (next to the cathedral; has pieces of older sculpture incorporated into the decoration around the outside, as shown in the photo


Eat frozen Greek yoghurt

The perfect way to cool off after a hot summer’s day wandering around archaeological sites – or, indeed, a hot winter’s day, should you happen to be there during a December in which temperatures reach 20 degrees. Can be found in lots of places, especially in the shopping area between Syntagma and Monastiraki. Serving suggestion: topped with fruit and Greek honey.

Metro station archaeology

Some Athenian metro stations have displays of archaeological finds made during the station’s construction, ranging from cases of small finds (vases, lamps, etc) to architectural remains that have been left in situ. See how many you can find!

Practise your Modern Greek

Or, as it’s probably best to call it while in Athens, ‘Greek’. You know, the kind people actually speak nowadays. If, however, your Greek (like mine) is limited to a few phrases out of a guidebook, I should warn you that attempts to use it will go one of two ways:

1) You, to shopkeeper (feeling that it’s polite to at least say hello in the local language): Kalimera! Shopkeeper: looks surprised, then decides that this clearly didn’t happen because tourists don’t speak Greek, and proceeds to speak in English.

2) You, to shopkeeper (as above): Kalimera! Shopkeeper, to you: *something incomprehensible in Greek*. You: *blank look*. Shopkeeper, more slowly: milate Ellinika? [Do you speak Greek?] You, finally understanding: Um, no, I don’t really… *conversation ends in embarrassment*

Visit the British School at Athens

If you’re going to be in Athens for any length of time, I’d highly recommend staying at/joining the BSA – that way, when sightseeing gets too much, you will be able to enjoy access to a very well-stocked library (with resident cat), a varied lecture and seminar programme, a common room full of comfortable sofas, an unlimited supply of Yorkshire tea, and gin-and-tonic nights on Fridays. Cambridge students should feel right at home.

And finally…my top travel tip:

Take your university card with you: students from E.U. universities get free entry to all state museums/sites in Greece! Most private ones will offer discounted entry, and may also have free entry days (e.g. Thursdays at the Benaki); many museums and sites are free to everyone on Sundays (in winter) or the first Sunday of the month (spring and autumn). So there’s really no reason not to go…

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